Руководство по ремонту parsun

Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесного лодочного мотора Parsun F2.6BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T2.5BM и T3.6BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F4BM и F5BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T4BM, T5BM и T5.8BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F9.8BM и F15BM.

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Руководство на английском языке по  техническому обслуживанию и ремонту подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F9.9BM/F9.9W/F15BM/F15W.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T9.9BM и T15BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T20BM, T25BM и T30BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T30BM/T30W/T35BM/T35W/T40BM/T40W.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесного лодочного мотора Parsun F2.6BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T2.5BM и T3.6BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F4BM и F5BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T4BM, T5BM и T5.8BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F9.8BM и F15BM.

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Руководство на английском языке по  техническому обслуживанию и ремонту подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun F9.9BM/F9.9W/F15BM/F15W.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T9.9BM и T15BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T20BM, T25BM и T30BM.

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Руководство по эксплуатации и техническому обслуживанию подвесных лодочных моторов Parsun T30BM/T30W/T35BM/T35W/T40BM/T40W.

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Parsun outboard motors are available for all boats, from PVC fishing boats to solid boats and yachts. Parsun is currently one of the fastest growing
manufacturers in the production of outboard motors.

Having appeared on the Chinese market in 2006, it used all the international experience gained in the production of outboard motors, using the most modern technologies and cheap skilled labor.

Taking as a model the best of the currently existing models of two-stroke and four-stroke outboard engines, Parsun manufactures a wide range of high-quality and
low-cost equipment.

Today, Parsun has 31 exclusive distributors in 39 countries. Quality and reasonable price ensures steady demand for Parsun outboard motors in European countries, for example, in
2008, more than 5,000 units were sold in Sweden alone.

  • Page 1
    PARSUN OUTBOARD ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL F15/F9.9BM(F15/F9.9W) SUZHOU PARSUN POWER MACHINE CO., LTD.
  • Page 2
    NOTICE This manual includes service instructions for F9.9, F15 and has been prepared by Parsun Power primarily for use by the dealers when performing maintenance and repair to Parsun outboard engines. Before performing maintenance, please read the manual carefully. When performing maintenance and repair to Parsun outboard engines, please use the service procedure and tools recommended by the manual.
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    INDEX GENERAL INFORMATION················································································································1 IDENTIFICATION··················································································································1 PROPELLER SELECTION···································································································1 EMERGENCY START············································································································1 SAFETY WHILE WORKING································································································2 DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY························································································3 ONE-TIME USE PARTS·········································································································4 PRE-DELIVERY CHECK······································································································4 SPECIAL TOOLS AND DETECTION DEVICE·································································6 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING AND SYMBOL·············································································8 SPECIFICATIONS································································································································9 OUTBOARD ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS·········································································9 MAINTENANCE INFORMATION·····················································································10 Power unit························································································································10 Lower unit························································································································11 Ignition system·················································································································11 Charge system··················································································································12 TIGHTENING TORQUE······································································································12 Specified torque···············································································································12…

  • Page 4
    Anode································································································································20 Grease points····················································································································20 Cooling water passage·····································································································21 Thermostat·······················································································································22 RECOIL STARTER·····························································································································22 NOTICE··································································································································22 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING······································································································23 DISASSEMBLING·················································································································27 START ROPE REPLACEMENT·························································································27 DISASSEMBLING AND INSPECTION··············································································28 ASSEMBLING·······················································································································29 INSTALLATION····················································································································29 IGNITION SYSTEM···························································································································29 NOTICE··································································································································29 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING······································································································30 WIRING DIAGRAM·············································································································35 SPARK PLUG IGNITION·····································································································35 SPARK PLUG CAP················································································································36 FLYWHEEL MAINTENANCE····························································································36 CDI INSPECTION·················································································································36 IGNITION COIL INSPECTION··························································································36 PULSED COIL INSPECTION·····························································································37 CHARGE COIL INSPECTION····························································································37 FUEL SYSTEM····································································································································38…
  • Page 5
    DISASSEMBLING POWER UNIT······················································································55 BELT PULLEY AND TIMING BELT··················································································56 DISASSEMBLING AND INSPECTION··············································································57 CYLINDER COVER······································································································57 Disassembling············································································································57 Valve and valve guide bush······················································································58 Valve spring···············································································································58 Valve rocker arm and rocker shaft·········································································58 Camshaft···················································································································58 Oil pump check·········································································································59 Valve guide bush replacement·················································································59 Valve seat inspection·································································································60 Valve seat cutting······································································································61 Valve installation·······································································································61 Assembling cylinder cover·······················································································61 CRANKCASE··················································································································61…
  • Page 6
    Disassembling and inspection·························································································78 BRACKET······························································································································79 Explosive drawing···········································································································79 Disassembling and inspection·························································································83 UPPER UNIT··························································································································85 Explosive drawing···········································································································85 Disassembling and inspection·························································································86 LOWER UNIT······································································································································87 WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY·································································································87 Explosive drawing···········································································································87 Disassembling and inspection·························································································88 LOWER UNIT························································································································89 Explosive Drawing···········································································································89 Disassembling and inspection·························································································94 Propeller shaft and clutch block··············································································94 Dog clutch installation······························································································95 Lower casing cover···································································································95 Lower casing cover oil seal and bearing installation·············································95 Drive shaft·················································································································96…
  • Page 7: General Information

    Record your outboard motor serial number in the spaces provided to assist you in ordering spare parts from your Parsun dealer or for reference in case your outboard motor is stolen.

  • Page 8: Safety While Working

    items far away. Don’t touch flywheel or other moving parts. When starting and operating, don’t touch ignition coil, spark plug cap or other electric parts. The procedure is as follows: 1. Remove the top cowling. 2. Remove the start-in-gear protection device cable. Start-in-gear protection device cable Demount three bolts and remove starter.

  • Page 9: Disassembly And Assembly

    4. LUBRICANTS AND SEALING FLUIDS When performing maintenance procedures and repair to Parsun outboards, use only products provided or recommended by our Company. Under normal conditions of use, there should be no hazards from the use of the lubricants mentioned in this manual, but safety is all-important, and by adopting good safety practices, any risk is minimized.

  • Page 10: One-Time Use Parts

    5. When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of water-resistant grease to the ledge and outside diameter. 6. After assembly, check if the moving parts operate normally. ONE-TIME USE PARTS One-time use parts are gasket, oil seal, O-ring, cotter pin and spring, ring, and etc.. When re-assembling outboard engine, you must change the one-time use parts.

  • Page 11
    3. CHECK STEERING SYSTEM Check if steering is stable. Check if steering friction is adjusted correctly. Turn clamp handle screw clockwise to increase resistance. Turn clamp handle screw counter clockwise to lower resistance. 1. Clamp handle screw 4. CHECK SHIFT LEVER AND THROTTLE Check if the shift lever is operated smoothly.
  • Page 12: Special Tools And Detection Device

    SPECIAL TOOLS AND DETECTION DEVICE When performing maintenance and repair, you need to use all kinds of special tools and detection device. The use of correct tools will improve the work efficiency and avoid of the damage to the people and outboard engines.

  • Page 13
    DETECTION DEVICE Digital tachometer Digital circuit tester Peak voltage adaptor…
  • Page 14: Explosive Drawing And Symbol

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING AND SYMBOL EXPLOSIVE DRAWING M8x45 mm 18 Nm 1277 Parts explosive drawing. Screw specification and specified torque. Oil, fluid sealant or locking substance daubing point. Spare parts details. SYMBOL 1277 1243 Daub waterproof Daub screw locking Daub screw locking Daub engine oil Daub fluid sealant grease…

  • Page 15: Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS OUTBOARD ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Item Description Item Description Ignition Overall length 1001mm C.D.I system Starting Overall width 427mm Choke valve enrichment 1080mm Spark plug DPR7HS Overall Exhaust height 1207mm Under water system Lubrication 49kg Pressure lubrication system Unleaded regular 51kg Fuel type gasoline 7.3Kw(9.9hp)@5000r/min…

  • Page 16: Maintenance Information

    MAINTENANCE INFORMATION Power unit Item Description Item Description Warp limit 0.1mm Intake 0.15~0.25mm Valve Camshaft inside clearance 35.000~35.012mm Exhaust 0.20~0.30mm (cold) diameter Rocker shaft 12.941~12.951mm Intake 1.98~3.11mm outside diameter Face width Rocker inside 13.000~13.018mm Exhaust 1.98~3.11mm diameter Bore 59.00~59.015mm Intake 0.6~0.8mm Seat width Wear limit…

  • Page 17: Lower Unit

    Intake 27.596~27.696mm Journal diameter 34.997~35.009 mm Crankpin Exhaust 27.616~27.716mm 30.997~31.009 mm diameter Round diameter 23.950~24.050mm Crankpin width 21.00~21.07mm Big end side Journal diameter 34.935~34.955mm 0.05~0.22mm clearance Camshaft round 0.03mm Round limit 0.05mm limit Opening Discharge 5.70L/min 58~62ºC temperature Safety valve Full-opening 388.0~450.0kPa 70ºC…

  • Page 18: Charge System

    Charge system Item Description Item Description Min. (3000 r/min) 5.5 A Start (load) 14 V Charge Light coil current Max. (5000 r/min) 6.0 A 1500r/min (no-load) 30 V output Rectifier 3000r/min (no-load) 24 V 3500r/min (no-load) 70 V peak 5000r/min (no-load 38 V Light coil resistance 0.33~0.72…

  • Page 19: General Torque

    Lower unit mounting Bolt 18 Nm Lower unit housing cover Bolt Anode Bolt 8 Nm Water pump housing Bolt 18 Nm Water pump base Bolt 18 Nm Water inlet Bolt 5 Nm Oil drain bolt Bolt 9 Nm Oil filler hole Bolt 9 Nm Pinion…

  • Page 20: Periodic Service

    PERIODIC SERVICE MAINTENANCE TIME TABLE Initial maintenace General maintenance Items Contents period 10 hours 50 hours 100 hours 200 hours (month (3 months) (6 months) (1 year) Anode Inspection/ replacement Spark plug Cleaning/ adjustment / replacement Grease points Greasing Bolts and nuts Inspection Fuel filter Inspection/ replacement…

  • Page 21: Fuel System

    FUEL SYSTEM 1. CHECK FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PIPE Check if fuel tank, carburetor, fuel pump and fuel pipe are damaged or leaked. Replace if necessary. Check if the fuel filter on the tank is dirty. Clean dirt or replace if necessary. 2.

  • Page 22: Changing Engine Oil

    2. If above the upper mark, drain the engine oil; if below lower mark, add engine oil up to upper mark. CAUTION: Run the engine and then turn it off, wait for several minutes, and check the engine oil level by the oil rule again.

  • Page 23: Spark Plug

    Don’t rotate the flywheel counter clockwise in case the valve system is damaged. NOTE Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold Intake valve 0.15~0.25mm Valve clearance (cold position) Exhaust valve 0.20~0.30mm 6. Loose lock nut, rotate adjusting bolt to reach the specified valve clearance. NOTE Rotate adjusting bolt clockwise to reduce the valve clearance.

  • Page 24: Idling Speed

    throttle cable stop screw Electric start type 1. Turn the gear shift lever to neutral position. 2. Check if the arresting stop on the throttle accelerograph enforce touches the check plate on the bracket. check plate arresting stop 3. Loosen the lock nut and take out the cotter pin, then remove the cable joint. 1.

  • Page 25: Start-In-Gear Protection

    3. Turn the throttle stop screw clockwise or counter clockwise, until the specified idling speed is attained. NOTE Turn clockwise to increase idling speed. Turn counter clockwise to decrease idling speed. If necessary, turn the idling speed screw on the carburetor clockwise or counter clockwise, until the specified idling speed is attained.

  • Page 26: Lower Unit Leakage Check

    Remove the drain plug screw, the oil level plug screw, and then drain the gear oil. Oil level plug screw 2. Drain plug screw 4) Add gear oil through the drain plug hole using pressure filling device. 5) When gear oil overflows through the oil level plug hole, install the oil level plug screw. 6) Install the drain plug screw, then clean overflowing gear oil.

  • Page 27: Cooling Water Passage

    2. Paint anti-corrosion grease on the propeller shaft. Cooling water passage 1. Inspect cooling water passage, if blocked, clean it. Cooling water passage inlet 2. Place the outboard engine in the water and ensure the water level is above the anti-vortex plate, then start the engine.

  • Page 28: Thermostat

    Thermostat 1. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat. 2. Hang the thermostat in a container with water. 3. Heat the container. 4. Check the valve open height under the specified water temperatures. If out of order, change it. Water temperature Valve open height Under 62 0.1mm…

  • Page 29: Explosive Drawing

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 32
    Electric start type…
  • Page 33: Disassembling

    DISASSEMBLING Open the top cowling. Screw loosely the adjusting nut of the arrester tightwire. Adjusting nut Remove the tightwire from the arrester. Remove the starter fixing bolts, and remove the starter. STARTER ROPE REPLACEMENT 1. Pull the starter rope out, and insert it in the notch of the start-up wheel. Turn the start-up clockwise until the volute spring is free.

  • Page 34: Disassembling And Inspection

    6. Insert the start rope in the notch of the start-up wheel and turn the start-up wheel several rounds in counter clockwise direction. 7. Pull the starter handle many times to check if the start-up wheel rotates stably. If necessary, repeat step 6 and step 7.

  • Page 35: Assembling

    1. Remove the link rod assy of chock valve. 2. Remove the cotter pin and rocker shaft. 3. Remove the rocker. 4. Remove the bush plate, guide bush and chock valve handle. 5. Check if the link rod assy is cranked or deformed. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 36: Explosive Drawing

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 39
    Electric start type…
  • Page 41: Wiring Diagram

    WIRING DIAGRAM Oil press switch Engine stop switch Spark plug C D I Lighting coil Pulsed coil Grounding wire Charge coil Ignition coil Oil alert light Wire beam color: White Orange Yellow/Red Black Blue Red/White Green Yellow Brown SPARK PLUG IGNITION 1.

  • Page 42: Spark Plug Cap

    SPARK PLUG CAP 1. Remove the spark plug cap. Check if the spark plug cap is broken. Replace if necessary. 2. Install the spark plug cap. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. FLYWHEEL MAINTENANCE Use flywheel gripper to remove the nut and starter bush; use flywheel puller to remove flywheel. 2.

  • Page 43: Pulsed Coil Inspection

    PULSED COIL INSPECTION 1. Pulsed coil peak voltage Use the digital circuit tester and peak voltage adaptor to measure the peak voltage. If below the specification, check the pulsed coil resistance. Digital circuit tester Peak voltage adaptor Start (no-load) Start (load) Pulsed coil peak voltage 1500r/min (load) 3500r/min (load)

  • Page 44: Fuel System

    FUEL SYSTEM NOTICE Gasoline is inflammable and highly volatile liquid. Its leakage can cause fire and explosion. Don’t start the engine before all joints of the fuel system are connected or installed. When completing all maintenance steps, force short-time pressure to the fuel system to check for leakage. EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 49
    Electric start type…
  • Page 50: Throttle Connecting Rod Adjustment

    THROTTLE CONNECTING ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. Turn throttle accelerograph enforce to full opening position. Turn carburetor throttle rod to full opening position. . Throttle accelerograh enforce . Carburetor throttle rod . Lock screw 2. In full opening position, tighten the throttle rod lock screw. FUEL JOINT REMOVAL AND INSPECTION 1.

  • Page 51: Filter Inspection

    7. Force a prescribed negative pressure and check for leakage. Disassemble the fuel pump to check if necessary. Prescribed pressure: 50kPa 8. Remove four bolts, and separate fuel pump cover from fuel pump seat. 9. Remove the valve screw from fuel pump, and remove the valve plate. 10.

  • Page 52: Power Unit

    POWER UNIT NOTICE To avoid accidental start of outboard engine during maintenance, please take enough safety measures to disconnect the ignition system. For instance, remove the engine stop lanyard from engine stop switch assembly, and remove spark plug cap from spark plug. EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 55
    14 Nm…
  • Page 58
    M6x20mm 8 Nm 1243 5 Nm 8 Nm 2 Nm M6x30mm 1st 6 Nm 2nd 12Nm 40 Nm M8x55mm 1st 15 Nm 2nd 30 Nm 18 Nm M6x35mm 1st 6 Nm 2nd 12Nm…
  • Page 60: Special Tools

    SPECIAL TOOLS Piston slider Flywheel gripper and flywheel puller Valve spring compressor Housing oil seal installer Space gauge Oil cleaner spanner COMPRESSION PRESSURE INSPECTION 1.Start the engine and preheat it for 5 minutes. Then stop it. 2. Remove stopper hang rope. 3.

  • Page 61: Oil Pressure Inspection

    NOTE: If the cylinder pressure increases continuously, check piston and piston ring for damage. Replace if necessary. If the cylinder pressure doesn’t increase at all, check valve clearance, valve, valve seat, cylinder liner, cylinder cover and cylinder cover gasket. Adjust or replace if necessary. The outboard engine comes with an automatic decompression device, so the pressure data measured may have variance.

  • Page 62: Belt Pulley And Timing Belt

    6. Remove bolts connecting power unit and upper casing. 7. Lift the engine and remove the pin. 8. Remove oil strainer and safety valve. Check the oil strainer for damage and clog. Replace if necessary. Check the safety valve for damage and crack. Replace if necessary. 9.

  • Page 63: Disassembling And Inspection

    damaged. 8. Assemble wood ruff key and timing belt pulley. Align the notch mark on the timing belt pulley with the mark “ ” on the cylinder body. 9. Assemble new timing belt. Remember to put the timing belt part number vertical and upward. CAUTION: Please don’t distort, rotate or bend the timing belt.

  • Page 64: Valve And Valve Guide Bush

    Valve and valve guide bush . Inspect the valve seat width. If not in the prescribed range, repair the valve seat. Valve seat width: 0.6 0.8mm 2. Inspect the valve margin thickness (T). If not as in the prescribed value, replace the valve. The margin thickness of valve: 0.5 0.9mm 3.

  • Page 65: Oil Pump Check

    Replace if necessary. Intake camshaft 27.596~27.696mm Height Exhaust camshaft 27.616~27.716mm Base circle diameter 23.950~24.050mm 2. Check camshaft run out. Replace if necessary. Roundness limit: 0.03mm 3. Check main journal diameter of camshaft and journal inside diameter of cylinder cover. Replace if necessary.

  • Page 66: Valve Seat Inspection

    3. Lap the valve on valve seat by valve lapping tool. 4. Measure the valve seat width. The valve face is with bluing dye. If the valve and valve seat do not match, or the valve seat width does not conform to specified value, reface and lap the valve seat.

  • Page 67: Valve Installation

    CAUTION: Do not overlap the valve. Turn the lapping tool evenly with a downward force of 40~50N. Do not contaminate push rod and valve guide bush with lapping compound. Valve installation 1. Install new valve oil seal and spread engine oil to the valve guide bush. 2.

  • Page 68: Piston

    2. Remove thermostat cover and gasket. 3. Remove exhaust outer cover, gasket and pin. Clean the anode surface and check the anode. Replace if the corrosion of anode is abnormal. Check the exhaust outer cover for crack, distortion or corrosion. Replace if necessary. 4.

  • Page 69: Piston Pin Diameter

    Taper limit: 0.08mm (D1-D5, D2-D6) Round limit: 0.05mm (D2-D1, D6-D5) Piston pin outside diameter Measure piston pin outside diameter. If out of specification, replace the piston pin. Piston pin outside diameter: 13.996 14.000mm Piston ring Push the piston ring parallel with the piston into the specified measuring point of the cylinder (10mm from conjunction surface).

  • Page 70: Main Journal Oil Clearance

    2. Assemble connecting rod to the crankpin. 3. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: First tightening 10 Nm Second tightening 21 Nm 4. Remove the connecting rod, measure the compressed width of the plastic space gauge. If out of specification, replace the connecting rod.

  • Page 71: Piston Ring Installation

    Install piston, connecting rod, piston pin and piston pin circlip NOTE: When installing, make sure that the mark on the connecting rod is on the same side as the mark on the piston crown. Piston ring installation 1. Install oil ring, 2nd ring and top ring. NOTE: Make sure that the mark is toward the piston crown when installing the 2nd ring.

  • Page 72: Assembling Power Unit

    Assembling power unit 1. Install the main bearing to cylinder body. 2. Apply fluid sealant to conjunction surface of the cylinder body, and install dowel pin and cylinder body. Tighten the bolts twice according to the sequences on the right picture.

  • Page 73
    11. Install cover of cylinder cover and tighten bolt according to sequences on right picture. 12. Install throttle cable bracket and accelerograph enforce. 13. For electric start models, install gear shift limitative rod firstly. 14. Install oil pressure switch, ignition coil, C.D.I.
  • Page 74: Upper Unit

    UPPER UNIT TOP COWLING Explosive drawing…

  • Page 75: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove rubber seal. 2. Remove top cowling muffle cover screw and rubber underlay. 3. Remove top cowling muffle cover. 4. Remove locking hook and pothook. 5. Inspect top cowling for crack or damage. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 76: Bottom Cowling

    BOTTOM COWLING Explosive drawing…

  • Page 80: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove rubber plug, wave sheath and throttle cable jacket. 2. Remove bolts fixing bottom cowling cover board, and remove cover board. 3. Remove top cowling locking handle assembly screws, remove top cowling locking handle and top cowling locking block.

  • Page 81: Steering Handle

    STEERING HANDLE Explosive drawing…

  • Page 84: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove shift handle. 2. Remove steering handle cover. 3. Remove handle bush, bush washer and wave washer. 4. Remove cotter pin and friction adjusting bolt. 5. Remove throttle handle. 6. Remove throttle cable. 7. Remove throttle lever stay and throttle lever. 8.

  • Page 85: Bracket

    BRACKET Explosive drawing…

  • Page 89: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove limitative rod and bolt (M6X145). 2. Remove nut and bolt of tilt stopper plate, and remove the tilt stopper plate.

  • Page 90
    3. Remove clamp bracket nut, two hole plate, and double head bolt of clamp bracket. 4. Remove clamp bracket. 5. Remove rotary bracket. 6. Remove lock angle handle and tilt lock rod. Remove tension spring and angle orientation lever. 7. Remove orientation bushing and nylon bush. 8.
  • Page 91: Upper Unit

    UPPER UNIT Explosive drawing…

  • Page 92: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove the oil sump. 2. Remove the oil seal and abnormity seal. 3. Remove the exhaust pipe, oil drain bolt, oil drain jacket and exhaust pipe seal. 4. Remove double hole shock absorber assy, water pipe quadrate seal and water pipe. 5.

  • Page 93: Lower Unit

    LOWER UNIT WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY Explosive drawing…

  • Page 94: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove water pump fixed plate. 2. Remove water pump housing. 3. Remove impeller and water pump inner shell. 4. Remove woodruff key and outer plate. 5. Check water pump housing and outer plate for crack, crank or damage. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 95: Lower Unit

    LOWER UNIT Explosive drawing…

  • Page 100: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Drain oil, and remove the cotter pin. 2. Put a piece of wood between propeller and anti-swirl baffle. Remove hexagon nut, anode and water inlet. 3. Remove propeller assembly and cushion. 4. Remove anode. 5. Remove the lower casing cover. Remove reverse gear and shim.

  • Page 101: Dog Clutch Installation

    Dog clutch installation 1. Put clutch spring into the hole at the end of the propeller shaft. Install the dog clutch as shown. Make sure the “F” mark is toward the forward gear. Install clutch pin. 3. Install clutch ring and shift plunger. Lower casing cover 1.

  • Page 102: Drive Shaft

    3. Install reverse gear and shim. NOTE: Adjust the shim when install the new reverse gear and bearing. Drive shaft 1. Inspect the drive shaft for crank or wear. Replace if necessary. 2. Check the run out of drive shaft. Run out limit: 0.05 mm Shift rod cam Check the shift rod cam for wear or deform.

  • Page 103: Lower Unit Installation

    4. Install oil seal. it: mm) Bearing block oil seal installer 5. Install nylon bushing, shift rod cam assy, gasket, and drive shaft base. Install forward gear, drive shaft, shim, end thrust bearing and pinion. Forward gear bearing installer CAUTION: Adjust shim when install new drive shaft base or drive shaft.

  • Page 104: Shim Selection

    3. Connect the columned nut and shift rod cam assy. Change shift, and check if the operation is normal. Adjust the columned nut position if necessary. Tighten the nut thoroughly. 4. Add gear oil using the pressure filling device. Shim selection T1 T2 T3: Shim thickness M1: Reverse gear thickness;…

  • Page 105: Common Troubles And Solutions

    NOTE Use three measuring points when measuring the thickness. Apply the average. For the optional shim specs, refer to page 11. COMMON TROUBLES AND SOLUTIONS Trouble type Possible reason Recovery action Starter components are faulty Repair or replace Starter will not Shift lever is not in the neutral operate Move to the neutral position…

  • Page 106
    Cont’d Trouble type Possible reason Recovery action Propeller is damaged Repair or replace propeller Adjust trim angle to achieve most efficient Trim angle is incorrect angle Motor is mounted at incorrect Adjust motor to proper transom height transom height Boat bottom is fouled with marine Clean boat bottom growth Weeds or other foreign matter are…

Parsun outboard motors are available for all boats, from PVC fishing boats to solid boats and yachts. Parsun is currently one of the fastest growing
manufacturers in the production of outboard motors.

Having appeared on the Chinese market in 2006, it used all the international experience gained in the production of outboard motors, using the most modern technologies and cheap skilled labor.

Taking as a model the best of the currently existing models of two-stroke and four-stroke outboard engines, Parsun manufactures a wide range of high-quality and
low-cost equipment.

Today, Parsun has 31 exclusive distributors in 39 countries. Quality and reasonable price ensures steady demand for Parsun outboard motors in European countries, for example, in
2008, more than 5,000 units were sold in Sweden alone.

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PARSUN OUTBOARD ENGINE

SERVICE MANUAL

F15/F9.9BM(F15/F9.9W)

SUZHOU PARSUN POWER MACHINE CO., LTD.

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Summary of Contents for Parsun F15/F9.9BM

  • Page 1
    PARSUN OUTBOARD ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL F15/F9.9BM(F15/F9.9W) SUZHOU PARSUN POWER MACHINE CO., LTD.
  • Page 2
    NOTICE This manual includes service instructions for F9.9, F15 and has been prepared by Parsun Power primarily for use by the dealers when performing maintenance and repair to Parsun outboard engines. Before performing maintenance, please read the manual carefully. When performing maintenance and repair to Parsun outboard engines, please use the service procedure and tools recommended by the manual.
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    INDEX GENERAL INFORMATION················································································································1 IDENTIFICATION··················································································································1 PROPELLER SELECTION···································································································1 EMERGENCY START············································································································1 SAFETY WHILE WORKING································································································2 DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY························································································3 ONE-TIME USE PARTS·········································································································4 PRE-DELIVERY CHECK······································································································4 SPECIAL TOOLS AND DETECTION DEVICE·································································6 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING AND SYMBOL·············································································8 SPECIFICATIONS································································································································9 OUTBOARD ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS·········································································9 MAINTENANCE INFORMATION·····················································································10 Power unit························································································································10 Lower unit························································································································11 Ignition system·················································································································11 Charge system··················································································································12 TIGHTENING TORQUE······································································································12 Specified torque···············································································································12…

  • Page 4
    Anode································································································································20 Grease points····················································································································20 Cooling water passage·····································································································21 Thermostat·······················································································································22 RECOIL STARTER·····························································································································22 NOTICE··································································································································22 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING······································································································23 DISASSEMBLING·················································································································27 START ROPE REPLACEMENT·························································································27 DISASSEMBLING AND INSPECTION··············································································28 ASSEMBLING·······················································································································29 INSTALLATION····················································································································29 IGNITION SYSTEM···························································································································29 NOTICE··································································································································29 EXPLOSIVE DRAWING······································································································30 WIRING DIAGRAM·············································································································35 SPARK PLUG IGNITION·····································································································35 SPARK PLUG CAP················································································································36 FLYWHEEL MAINTENANCE····························································································36 CDI INSPECTION·················································································································36 IGNITION COIL INSPECTION··························································································36 PULSED COIL INSPECTION·····························································································37 CHARGE COIL INSPECTION····························································································37 FUEL SYSTEM····································································································································38…
  • Page 5
    DISASSEMBLING POWER UNIT······················································································55 BELT PULLEY AND TIMING BELT··················································································56 DISASSEMBLING AND INSPECTION··············································································57 CYLINDER COVER······································································································57 Disassembling············································································································57 Valve and valve guide bush······················································································58 Valve spring···············································································································58 Valve rocker arm and rocker shaft·········································································58 Camshaft···················································································································58 Oil pump check·········································································································59 Valve guide bush replacement·················································································59 Valve seat inspection·································································································60 Valve seat cutting······································································································61 Valve installation·······································································································61 Assembling cylinder cover·······················································································61 CRANKCASE··················································································································61…
  • Page 6
    Disassembling and inspection·························································································78 BRACKET······························································································································79 Explosive drawing···········································································································79 Disassembling and inspection·························································································83 UPPER UNIT··························································································································85 Explosive drawing···········································································································85 Disassembling and inspection·························································································86 LOWER UNIT······································································································································87 WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY·································································································87 Explosive drawing···········································································································87 Disassembling and inspection·························································································88 LOWER UNIT························································································································89 Explosive Drawing···········································································································89 Disassembling and inspection·························································································94 Propeller shaft and clutch block··············································································94 Dog clutch installation······························································································95 Lower casing cover···································································································95 Lower casing cover oil seal and bearing installation·············································95 Drive shaft·················································································································96…
  • Page 7: General Information

    Record your outboard motor serial number in the spaces provided to assist you in ordering spare parts from your Parsun dealer or for reference in case your outboard motor is stolen.

  • Page 8: Safety While Working

    items far away. Don’t touch flywheel or other moving parts. When starting and operating, don’t touch ignition coil, spark plug cap or other electric parts. The procedure is as follows: 1. Remove the top cowling. 2. Remove the start-in-gear protection device cable. Start-in-gear protection device cable Demount three bolts and remove starter.

  • Page 9: Disassembly And Assembly

    4. LUBRICANTS AND SEALING FLUIDS When performing maintenance procedures and repair to Parsun outboards, use only products provided or recommended by our Company. Under normal conditions of use, there should be no hazards from the use of the lubricants mentioned in this manual, but safety is all-important, and by adopting good safety practices, any risk is minimized.

  • Page 10: One-Time Use Parts

    5. When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of water-resistant grease to the ledge and outside diameter. 6. After assembly, check if the moving parts operate normally. ONE-TIME USE PARTS One-time use parts are gasket, oil seal, O-ring, cotter pin and spring, ring, and etc.. When re-assembling outboard engine, you must change the one-time use parts.

  • Page 11
    3. CHECK STEERING SYSTEM Check if steering is stable. Check if steering friction is adjusted correctly. Turn clamp handle screw clockwise to increase resistance. Turn clamp handle screw counter clockwise to lower resistance. 1. Clamp handle screw 4. CHECK SHIFT LEVER AND THROTTLE Check if the shift lever is operated smoothly.
  • Page 12: Special Tools And Detection Device

    SPECIAL TOOLS AND DETECTION DEVICE When performing maintenance and repair, you need to use all kinds of special tools and detection device. The use of correct tools will improve the work efficiency and avoid of the damage to the people and outboard engines.

  • Page 13
    DETECTION DEVICE Digital tachometer Digital circuit tester Peak voltage adaptor…
  • Page 14: Explosive Drawing And Symbol

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING AND SYMBOL EXPLOSIVE DRAWING M8x45 mm 18 Nm 1277 Parts explosive drawing. Screw specification and specified torque. Oil, fluid sealant or locking substance daubing point. Spare parts details. SYMBOL 1277 1243 Daub waterproof Daub screw locking Daub screw locking Daub engine oil Daub fluid sealant grease…

  • Page 15: Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS OUTBOARD ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Item Description Item Description Ignition Overall length 1001mm C.D.I system Starting Overall width 427mm Choke valve enrichment 1080mm Spark plug DPR7HS Overall Exhaust height 1207mm Under water system Lubrication 49kg Pressure lubrication system Unleaded regular 51kg Fuel type gasoline 7.3Kw(9.9hp)@5000r/min…

  • Page 16: Maintenance Information

    MAINTENANCE INFORMATION Power unit Item Description Item Description Warp limit 0.1mm Intake 0.15~0.25mm Valve Camshaft inside clearance 35.000~35.012mm Exhaust 0.20~0.30mm (cold) diameter Rocker shaft 12.941~12.951mm Intake 1.98~3.11mm outside diameter Face width Rocker inside 13.000~13.018mm Exhaust 1.98~3.11mm diameter Bore 59.00~59.015mm Intake 0.6~0.8mm Seat width Wear limit…

  • Page 17: Lower Unit

    Intake 27.596~27.696mm Journal diameter 34.997~35.009 mm Crankpin Exhaust 27.616~27.716mm 30.997~31.009 mm diameter Round diameter 23.950~24.050mm Crankpin width 21.00~21.07mm Big end side Journal diameter 34.935~34.955mm 0.05~0.22mm clearance Camshaft round 0.03mm Round limit 0.05mm limit Opening Discharge 5.70L/min 58~62ºC temperature Safety valve Full-opening 388.0~450.0kPa 70ºC…

  • Page 18: Charge System

    Charge system Item Description Item Description Min. (3000 r/min) 5.5 A Start (load) 14 V Charge Light coil current Max. (5000 r/min) 6.0 A 1500r/min (no-load) 30 V output Rectifier 3000r/min (no-load) 24 V 3500r/min (no-load) 70 V peak 5000r/min (no-load 38 V Light coil resistance 0.33~0.72…

  • Page 19: General Torque

    Lower unit mounting Bolt 18 Nm Lower unit housing cover Bolt Anode Bolt 8 Nm Water pump housing Bolt 18 Nm Water pump base Bolt 18 Nm Water inlet Bolt 5 Nm Oil drain bolt Bolt 9 Nm Oil filler hole Bolt 9 Nm Pinion…

  • Page 20: Periodic Service

    PERIODIC SERVICE MAINTENANCE TIME TABLE Initial maintenace General maintenance Items Contents period 10 hours 50 hours 100 hours 200 hours (month (3 months) (6 months) (1 year) Anode Inspection/ replacement Spark plug Cleaning/ adjustment / replacement Grease points Greasing Bolts and nuts Inspection Fuel filter Inspection/ replacement…

  • Page 21: Fuel System

    FUEL SYSTEM 1. CHECK FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PIPE Check if fuel tank, carburetor, fuel pump and fuel pipe are damaged or leaked. Replace if necessary. Check if the fuel filter on the tank is dirty. Clean dirt or replace if necessary. 2.

  • Page 22: Changing Engine Oil

    2. If above the upper mark, drain the engine oil; if below lower mark, add engine oil up to upper mark. CAUTION: Run the engine and then turn it off, wait for several minutes, and check the engine oil level by the oil rule again.

  • Page 23: Spark Plug

    Don’t rotate the flywheel counter clockwise in case the valve system is damaged. NOTE Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold Intake valve 0.15~0.25mm Valve clearance (cold position) Exhaust valve 0.20~0.30mm 6. Loose lock nut, rotate adjusting bolt to reach the specified valve clearance. NOTE Rotate adjusting bolt clockwise to reduce the valve clearance.

  • Page 24: Idling Speed

    throttle cable stop screw Electric start type 1. Turn the gear shift lever to neutral position. 2. Check if the arresting stop on the throttle accelerograph enforce touches the check plate on the bracket. check plate arresting stop 3. Loosen the lock nut and take out the cotter pin, then remove the cable joint. 1.

  • Page 25: Start-In-Gear Protection

    3. Turn the throttle stop screw clockwise or counter clockwise, until the specified idling speed is attained. NOTE Turn clockwise to increase idling speed. Turn counter clockwise to decrease idling speed. If necessary, turn the idling speed screw on the carburetor clockwise or counter clockwise, until the specified idling speed is attained.

  • Page 26: Lower Unit Leakage Check

    Remove the drain plug screw, the oil level plug screw, and then drain the gear oil. Oil level plug screw 2. Drain plug screw 4) Add gear oil through the drain plug hole using pressure filling device. 5) When gear oil overflows through the oil level plug hole, install the oil level plug screw. 6) Install the drain plug screw, then clean overflowing gear oil.

  • Page 27: Cooling Water Passage

    2. Paint anti-corrosion grease on the propeller shaft. Cooling water passage 1. Inspect cooling water passage, if blocked, clean it. Cooling water passage inlet 2. Place the outboard engine in the water and ensure the water level is above the anti-vortex plate, then start the engine.

  • Page 28: Thermostat

    Thermostat 1. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat. 2. Hang the thermostat in a container with water. 3. Heat the container. 4. Check the valve open height under the specified water temperatures. If out of order, change it. Water temperature Valve open height Under 62 0.1mm…

  • Page 29: Explosive Drawing

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 32
    Electric start type…
  • Page 33: Disassembling

    DISASSEMBLING Open the top cowling. Screw loosely the adjusting nut of the arrester tightwire. Adjusting nut Remove the tightwire from the arrester. Remove the starter fixing bolts, and remove the starter. STARTER ROPE REPLACEMENT 1. Pull the starter rope out, and insert it in the notch of the start-up wheel. Turn the start-up clockwise until the volute spring is free.

  • Page 34: Disassembling And Inspection

    6. Insert the start rope in the notch of the start-up wheel and turn the start-up wheel several rounds in counter clockwise direction. 7. Pull the starter handle many times to check if the start-up wheel rotates stably. If necessary, repeat step 6 and step 7.

  • Page 35: Assembling

    1. Remove the link rod assy of chock valve. 2. Remove the cotter pin and rocker shaft. 3. Remove the rocker. 4. Remove the bush plate, guide bush and chock valve handle. 5. Check if the link rod assy is cranked or deformed. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 36: Explosive Drawing

    EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 39
    Electric start type…
  • Page 41: Wiring Diagram

    WIRING DIAGRAM Oil press switch Engine stop switch Spark plug C D I Lighting coil Pulsed coil Grounding wire Charge coil Ignition coil Oil alert light Wire beam color: White Orange Yellow/Red Black Blue Red/White Green Yellow Brown SPARK PLUG IGNITION 1.

  • Page 42: Spark Plug Cap

    SPARK PLUG CAP 1. Remove the spark plug cap. Check if the spark plug cap is broken. Replace if necessary. 2. Install the spark plug cap. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. FLYWHEEL MAINTENANCE Use flywheel gripper to remove the nut and starter bush; use flywheel puller to remove flywheel. 2.

  • Page 43: Pulsed Coil Inspection

    PULSED COIL INSPECTION 1. Pulsed coil peak voltage Use the digital circuit tester and peak voltage adaptor to measure the peak voltage. If below the specification, check the pulsed coil resistance. Digital circuit tester Peak voltage adaptor Start (no-load) Start (load) Pulsed coil peak voltage 1500r/min (load) 3500r/min (load)

  • Page 44: Fuel System

    FUEL SYSTEM NOTICE Gasoline is inflammable and highly volatile liquid. Its leakage can cause fire and explosion. Don’t start the engine before all joints of the fuel system are connected or installed. When completing all maintenance steps, force short-time pressure to the fuel system to check for leakage. EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 49
    Electric start type…
  • Page 50: Throttle Connecting Rod Adjustment

    THROTTLE CONNECTING ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. Turn throttle accelerograph enforce to full opening position. Turn carburetor throttle rod to full opening position. . Throttle accelerograh enforce . Carburetor throttle rod . Lock screw 2. In full opening position, tighten the throttle rod lock screw. FUEL JOINT REMOVAL AND INSPECTION 1.

  • Page 51: Filter Inspection

    7. Force a prescribed negative pressure and check for leakage. Disassemble the fuel pump to check if necessary. Prescribed pressure: 50kPa 8. Remove four bolts, and separate fuel pump cover from fuel pump seat. 9. Remove the valve screw from fuel pump, and remove the valve plate. 10.

  • Page 52: Power Unit

    POWER UNIT NOTICE To avoid accidental start of outboard engine during maintenance, please take enough safety measures to disconnect the ignition system. For instance, remove the engine stop lanyard from engine stop switch assembly, and remove spark plug cap from spark plug. EXPLOSIVE DRAWING…

  • Page 55
    14 Nm…
  • Page 58
    M6x20mm 8 Nm 1243 5 Nm 8 Nm 2 Nm M6x30mm 1st 6 Nm 2nd 12Nm 40 Nm M8x55mm 1st 15 Nm 2nd 30 Nm 18 Nm M6x35mm 1st 6 Nm 2nd 12Nm…
  • Page 60: Special Tools

    SPECIAL TOOLS Piston slider Flywheel gripper and flywheel puller Valve spring compressor Housing oil seal installer Space gauge Oil cleaner spanner COMPRESSION PRESSURE INSPECTION 1.Start the engine and preheat it for 5 minutes. Then stop it. 2. Remove stopper hang rope. 3.

  • Page 61: Oil Pressure Inspection

    NOTE: If the cylinder pressure increases continuously, check piston and piston ring for damage. Replace if necessary. If the cylinder pressure doesn’t increase at all, check valve clearance, valve, valve seat, cylinder liner, cylinder cover and cylinder cover gasket. Adjust or replace if necessary. The outboard engine comes with an automatic decompression device, so the pressure data measured may have variance.

  • Page 62: Belt Pulley And Timing Belt

    6. Remove bolts connecting power unit and upper casing. 7. Lift the engine and remove the pin. 8. Remove oil strainer and safety valve. Check the oil strainer for damage and clog. Replace if necessary. Check the safety valve for damage and crack. Replace if necessary. 9.

  • Page 63: Disassembling And Inspection

    damaged. 8. Assemble wood ruff key and timing belt pulley. Align the notch mark on the timing belt pulley with the mark “ ” on the cylinder body. 9. Assemble new timing belt. Remember to put the timing belt part number vertical and upward. CAUTION: Please don’t distort, rotate or bend the timing belt.

  • Page 64: Valve And Valve Guide Bush

    Valve and valve guide bush . Inspect the valve seat width. If not in the prescribed range, repair the valve seat. Valve seat width: 0.6 0.8mm 2. Inspect the valve margin thickness (T). If not as in the prescribed value, replace the valve. The margin thickness of valve: 0.5 0.9mm 3.

  • Page 65: Oil Pump Check

    Replace if necessary. Intake camshaft 27.596~27.696mm Height Exhaust camshaft 27.616~27.716mm Base circle diameter 23.950~24.050mm 2. Check camshaft run out. Replace if necessary. Roundness limit: 0.03mm 3. Check main journal diameter of camshaft and journal inside diameter of cylinder cover. Replace if necessary.

  • Page 66: Valve Seat Inspection

    3. Lap the valve on valve seat by valve lapping tool. 4. Measure the valve seat width. The valve face is with bluing dye. If the valve and valve seat do not match, or the valve seat width does not conform to specified value, reface and lap the valve seat.

  • Page 67: Valve Installation

    CAUTION: Do not overlap the valve. Turn the lapping tool evenly with a downward force of 40~50N. Do not contaminate push rod and valve guide bush with lapping compound. Valve installation 1. Install new valve oil seal and spread engine oil to the valve guide bush. 2.

  • Page 68: Piston

    2. Remove thermostat cover and gasket. 3. Remove exhaust outer cover, gasket and pin. Clean the anode surface and check the anode. Replace if the corrosion of anode is abnormal. Check the exhaust outer cover for crack, distortion or corrosion. Replace if necessary. 4.

  • Page 69: Piston Pin Diameter

    Taper limit: 0.08mm (D1-D5, D2-D6) Round limit: 0.05mm (D2-D1, D6-D5) Piston pin outside diameter Measure piston pin outside diameter. If out of specification, replace the piston pin. Piston pin outside diameter: 13.996 14.000mm Piston ring Push the piston ring parallel with the piston into the specified measuring point of the cylinder (10mm from conjunction surface).

  • Page 70: Main Journal Oil Clearance

    2. Assemble connecting rod to the crankpin. 3. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: First tightening 10 Nm Second tightening 21 Nm 4. Remove the connecting rod, measure the compressed width of the plastic space gauge. If out of specification, replace the connecting rod.

  • Page 71: Piston Ring Installation

    Install piston, connecting rod, piston pin and piston pin circlip NOTE: When installing, make sure that the mark on the connecting rod is on the same side as the mark on the piston crown. Piston ring installation 1. Install oil ring, 2nd ring and top ring. NOTE: Make sure that the mark is toward the piston crown when installing the 2nd ring.

  • Page 72: Assembling Power Unit

    Assembling power unit 1. Install the main bearing to cylinder body. 2. Apply fluid sealant to conjunction surface of the cylinder body, and install dowel pin and cylinder body. Tighten the bolts twice according to the sequences on the right picture.

  • Page 73
    11. Install cover of cylinder cover and tighten bolt according to sequences on right picture. 12. Install throttle cable bracket and accelerograph enforce. 13. For electric start models, install gear shift limitative rod firstly. 14. Install oil pressure switch, ignition coil, C.D.I.
  • Page 74: Upper Unit

    UPPER UNIT TOP COWLING Explosive drawing…

  • Page 75: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove rubber seal. 2. Remove top cowling muffle cover screw and rubber underlay. 3. Remove top cowling muffle cover. 4. Remove locking hook and pothook. 5. Inspect top cowling for crack or damage. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 76: Bottom Cowling

    BOTTOM COWLING Explosive drawing…

  • Page 80: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove rubber plug, wave sheath and throttle cable jacket. 2. Remove bolts fixing bottom cowling cover board, and remove cover board. 3. Remove top cowling locking handle assembly screws, remove top cowling locking handle and top cowling locking block.

  • Page 81: Steering Handle

    STEERING HANDLE Explosive drawing…

  • Page 84: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove shift handle. 2. Remove steering handle cover. 3. Remove handle bush, bush washer and wave washer. 4. Remove cotter pin and friction adjusting bolt. 5. Remove throttle handle. 6. Remove throttle cable. 7. Remove throttle lever stay and throttle lever. 8.

  • Page 85: Bracket

    BRACKET Explosive drawing…

  • Page 89: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove limitative rod and bolt (M6X145). 2. Remove nut and bolt of tilt stopper plate, and remove the tilt stopper plate.

  • Page 90
    3. Remove clamp bracket nut, two hole plate, and double head bolt of clamp bracket. 4. Remove clamp bracket. 5. Remove rotary bracket. 6. Remove lock angle handle and tilt lock rod. Remove tension spring and angle orientation lever. 7. Remove orientation bushing and nylon bush. 8.
  • Page 91: Upper Unit

    UPPER UNIT Explosive drawing…

  • Page 92: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove the oil sump. 2. Remove the oil seal and abnormity seal. 3. Remove the exhaust pipe, oil drain bolt, oil drain jacket and exhaust pipe seal. 4. Remove double hole shock absorber assy, water pipe quadrate seal and water pipe. 5.

  • Page 93: Lower Unit

    LOWER UNIT WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY Explosive drawing…

  • Page 94: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Remove water pump fixed plate. 2. Remove water pump housing. 3. Remove impeller and water pump inner shell. 4. Remove woodruff key and outer plate. 5. Check water pump housing and outer plate for crack, crank or damage. Replace if necessary. 6.

  • Page 95: Lower Unit

    LOWER UNIT Explosive drawing…

  • Page 100: Disassembling And Inspection

    Disassembling and inspection 1. Drain oil, and remove the cotter pin. 2. Put a piece of wood between propeller and anti-swirl baffle. Remove hexagon nut, anode and water inlet. 3. Remove propeller assembly and cushion. 4. Remove anode. 5. Remove the lower casing cover. Remove reverse gear and shim.

  • Page 101: Dog Clutch Installation

    Dog clutch installation 1. Put clutch spring into the hole at the end of the propeller shaft. Install the dog clutch as shown. Make sure the “F” mark is toward the forward gear. Install clutch pin. 3. Install clutch ring and shift plunger. Lower casing cover 1.

  • Page 102: Drive Shaft

    3. Install reverse gear and shim. NOTE: Adjust the shim when install the new reverse gear and bearing. Drive shaft 1. Inspect the drive shaft for crank or wear. Replace if necessary. 2. Check the run out of drive shaft. Run out limit: 0.05 mm Shift rod cam Check the shift rod cam for wear or deform.

  • Page 103: Lower Unit Installation

    4. Install oil seal. it: mm) Bearing block oil seal installer 5. Install nylon bushing, shift rod cam assy, gasket, and drive shaft base. Install forward gear, drive shaft, shim, end thrust bearing and pinion. Forward gear bearing installer CAUTION: Adjust shim when install new drive shaft base or drive shaft.

  • Page 104: Shim Selection

    3. Connect the columned nut and shift rod cam assy. Change shift, and check if the operation is normal. Adjust the columned nut position if necessary. Tighten the nut thoroughly. 4. Add gear oil using the pressure filling device. Shim selection T1 T2 T3: Shim thickness M1: Reverse gear thickness;…

  • Page 105: Common Troubles And Solutions

    NOTE Use three measuring points when measuring the thickness. Apply the average. For the optional shim specs, refer to page 11. COMMON TROUBLES AND SOLUTIONS Trouble type Possible reason Recovery action Starter components are faulty Repair or replace Starter will not Shift lever is not in the neutral operate Move to the neutral position…

  • Page 106
    Cont’d Trouble type Possible reason Recovery action Propeller is damaged Repair or replace propeller Adjust trim angle to achieve most efficient Trim angle is incorrect angle Motor is mounted at incorrect Adjust motor to proper transom height transom height Boat bottom is fouled with marine Clean boat bottom growth Weeds or other foreign matter are…

Данное пособие будет полезно не только владельцам лодочных моторов Fisher 2.5 BMS (Sea pro Т2.5S; HDX 2; Yamaha 2 CMHS), но и владельцам других маломощных моторов. Так как устройство у них практически одинаковое, и имеются лишь незначительные отличия.

Более 100 лет назад, Оле Эвинруде придумал лодочный мотор, и до сегодняшнего дня компоновка его практически не изменилась.

Мотор и патент Оле Эвинруде.

В интернете почти невозможно найти руководство по ремонту и обслуживанию данных моторов. Поэтому на форумах по маломощным лодочным моторам часто можно встретить вот такие вопросы и «рекомендации» :

«В конце сезона решил проверить масло в редукторе. Открыл, а там — кофе с молоком. Понятно, что надо менять сальники, но как? Нигде не нашёл инструкции.
С техникой то я дружу и поменять сам смогу, но не хотелось бы дров наломать и разбирать лишнее.
Может, кто делал? Подскажите.
Например, снял крышку редуктора — сальник снаружи. Его просто выковыривать отвёрткой или… ?
Как отсоединить редуктор, чтобы подобраться к сальнику приводного вала?
Надо всю ногу отсоединять?».

Или:

«Ни где не нашел инструкции по замене сальника вала винта (мотор Sea-Pro T 2.5 — вроде как копия ямы 2). Методом проб и ошибок таки поменял сальник.
1. Слил масло, снял винт, снял крышку редуктора
2. Довольно долго пытался вытащить сальник с внешней стороны, с помощью отвертки, результат — развороченный сальник, который так и не удалось вытащить.
3. Решил выпрессовать с обратной стороны: два удара по латунной вставке (которая выполняет роль подшипника), через соответствующую проставку. Втулка упирается в сальник и выталкивает его наружу. Сальник у нас в руках.
4. Теми же двумя ударами запрессовываем втулку обратно».

Замена сальника выбиванием латунной втулки, которая является подшипником скольжения вала винта — это что-то! Так можно очень легко повредить втулку, заплющить, деформировать и, в конце концов — выбросить. Это всё равно, что вырезать больному гланды, через…

Вот чтобы не возникало подобных вопросов и предложений, я и решил написать эту статью.
В ней я расскажу, как разобрать мотор, как заменить крыльчатку помпы. Как заменить и защитить сальники от воды. Как отрегулировать шестерни редуктора. Опишу свой метод защиты винта при срезе шпонки и многое другое.

В прошлом сезоне мой мотор наработал более шестидесяти моточасов. Я им довольно интенсивно пользовался и на Дону, и на Хопре. После сезона эксплуатации, мне стало интересно узнать в каком состоянии находится мотор и на что ещё он способен. Ведь мотор-то китайский! Поэтому по ходу статьи проведу ещё и оценку состояния и качества основных узлов своего мотора.

Конструктивно он состоит из двух частей: это дейдвуд с редуктором, и сам мотор. Начнём с разборки дейдвуда.

Разборка дейдвуда

Откручиваем румпель от мотора. Если управления газом, на румпеле не установлено, то его можно не снимать.
Откручиваем шесть болтов, крепящих мотор к дейдвуду. Три с одной стороны, и три с другой.
Аккуратно, чтобы не повредить прокладку, отделяем дейдвуд от мотора.
Голову мотора, пока откладываем в сторону.
Снимаем промежуточную плиту. Осторожно — здесь тоже есть прокладка.
Промежуточная плита и прокладка. Вид со стороны дейдвуда. Зелёной стрелкой, показан выхлопной коллектор. Красной — уплотнительное кольцо трубки вала. Есть небольшое количество копоти — это нормально.
Промежуточная плита. Вид со стороны мотора. Стрелкой показан дренажный канал. Если сальники, которые расположены выше помпы, или уплотнительные колечки, уплотняющие трубку вала, начнут пропускать воду, то из этого канала, будет вытекать вода.
Канал, для отвода охлаждающей воды из мотора. Вода, охладившая мотор, через прямоугольное отверстие, сливается в дейдвуд. Видны незначительные следы накипи. Стрелкой указано узкое место, где образовавшаяся накипь в большом количестве, может перекрыть канал. Если из контрольного отверстия, перестала брызгать вода, то скопившаяся накипь, в указанном месте, может быть одной тому из причин.
Кольцо, уплотняющее трубку вала, должно выступать из канавки. Иначе в полость вала, будет поступать вода.

Продолжим разборку:

Поддев отвёрткой, выдвигаем трубку подачи воды, от помпы к мотору. Стрелками показаны направляющие штифты. Если в своих гнёздах, они сидят слабо, то их лучше снять, чтобы они не выпали и не потерялись.
Вынимаем трубку полностью.

Разборка редуктора и снятие крыльчатки помпы

Перед разборкой, из редуктора сливаем масло, открутив сливную и заливную пробки.
Верхнее уплотнительное кольцо, прикипело к отверстию. Трогать не стал. Первый раз, масло менял сразу после обкатки. Теперь меняю второй раз.
Отработанное масло. Довольно светлое, без признаков воды и «серебрянки». Это радует. Значит, редуктор в хорошем состоянии.
Теперь, открутим два болта, крепящие корпус редуктора к дейдвуду. Анод откручивать не нужно.
Отсоединяем редуктор от дейдвуда.
Пустой дейдвуд, откладываем в сторону.
Снимаем с направляющих штифтов, антикавитиционную пластину. Здесь прокладок нет. Да и ни к чему они здесь.
Чтобы сохранить от потери — вынимаем из своих гнёзд, направляющие штифты.
Трубка торсионного вала, покрыта копотью от выхлопных газов, которая легко снимается тряпкой. Это тоже нормально.
Трубка, нижним концом, входит в верхнюю часть корпуса помпы.
Вынимаем трубку.
Ведущий вал и трубка, которая его защищает. Если на валу, присутствуют следы ржавчины и воды — значит, или колечки, или сальники нужно менять. В моём случае — всё нормально.
Откручиваем два болта, крепящие верхнюю часть помпы.
Сдвигаем её по валу, до упора. Сам вал, пока извлечь не получится. Чтобы его снять, продолжим разборку редуктора со стороны винта. Как снять винт, думаю описывать не нужно. Чтобы он не мешался, его лучше снять ещё перед разборкой дейдвуда.
После обкатки, для защиты сальника снаружи, я его смазал специальной водостойкой смазкой. За сезон эксплуатации, смазка не вымылась водой. Не смотря на то, что под винтом, происходит довольно приличное микширование воды, крестовиной винта.
Для снятия крышки, откручиваем два болта, крепящих её.
Поддев двумя отвёртками, поднимаем крышку с сальником. Для этого в крышке, предусмотрительно сделаны два паза.
Снимаем крышку. Здесь нет прокладки, но есть уплотнительное кольцо.
В крышку впрессована латунная втулка, являющаяся подшипником ведомого вала винта.
Втулка имеет спиральную канавку, для смазки вала. За это, китайских изготовителей можно похвалить. А ведь могли загнать и обычную втулку. Вал во втулке, находился без заметного люфта — это тоже плюс.
Внутри редуктора, находятся две конические шестерни. Большая — ведомая, малая — ведущая. Ведомая шестерня, напрессована на вал винта. Чтобы извлечь шестерни и вал, нужно снять стопорную шайбу.
Синей стрелкой, показана опорная шайба ведущей шестерни. Красной — стопорная шайба.
Поддев тонкой отвёрткой, снимаем стопорную шайбу. Шайба, на вид довольно хлипкая, но на работу редуктора, она не влияет: из-за конического расположения зубьев, ведущая шестерня вниз не опустится, а при работе, она наоборот, прижимается к опорной шайбе.
Теперь, можно вынуть вал вместе с крыльчаткой. В этот момент, в редукторе, со шлицов выпадет ведущая шестерня и опорная шайба.
Вынимаем их из редуктора.
Извлекаем ведомый вал с шестерней.
В редукторе остался запрессованный шариковый подшипник, на который опирается задняя часть ведомого вала. Подшипник находится в отличном состоянии и его я вынимать не стал.
В корпусе редуктора, впрессованы две латунные втулки. Одна — с площадкой под опорную шайбу. Вторая — сквозная, установлена ближе к помпе. Втулки также, имеют спиральные проточки. А та, которая с площадкой, ещё имеет пазы, для смазки опорной шайбы. Здесь всё хорошо, придраться не к чему (ещё один плюс китайцам).
Это все детали, которые находятся в редукторе (кроме шарикового подшипника и сальника). Деталей, не так уж и много.

Теперь, я проведу небольшой анализ состояния шестерён и ведомого вала, своего мотора.

Шестерни выполнены качественно. Напильник их совершенно не берёт. На зубцах шестерён, видны следы фрезерования. Сколов и трещин нет.
Видно, что зубья приработались ещё не всей плоскостью. Со временем они притрутся и площадь сцепления только увеличится.

Видна приработанная часть, поверхности зубца.
Опорная часть ведущей шестерни, имеет серповидную проточку, для улучшения смазки торца шестерни.
Ведомая шестерня, также в отличном состоянии: ни сколов, ни какого либо брака, я не обнаружил.
Шестерни хорошо подогнаны друг к другу.
Вал, с напрессованной ведомой шестерней. Выработки от втулки и сальника, практически нет.
Синими стрелками показаны границы вращения вала в латунной втулке. Зелёной — след от манжеты сальника.

Вернёмся к разборке:

После извлечения вала, лопасти крыльчатки практически полостью распрямились. Это свидетельствует о её хорошем состоянии. Лопасти сохранили упругость. Износа и повреждений нет.
В таком положении находятся лопасти крыльчатки, когда она установлена в корпус. Поэтому, нельзя проворачивать мотор за винт, в обратном направлении: лопасти крыльчатки при этом, вывернутся в другую сторону, и если она уже «старая», то лопасти могут повредиться в месте изгиба. Избегайте вращать винт собранного мотора, в обратном направлении.
Для снятия крыльчатки, сдвигаем её в сторону.
Из глухого отверстия вынимаем фиксирующий штифт. За пластиной крыльчатки, в крышке установлены сальники
Снимаем крыльчатку и если необходимо — меняем.

Замена сальников

Схема расстановки сальников мотора Yamaha 2 CMHS: зелёными стрелками показаны сальники с двумя пружинками. Синей — два сальника, имеющие по одной пружинке.

В китайских моторах, все сальники имеют по одной уплотнительной пружинке.

Снимаем с вала пластину помпы.
Снимаем крышку помпы с сальниками.
В крышке помпы, стоит два сальника. Установлены они, пружинками в сторону крыльчатки. То есть — пружинками к воде.
Отверстие, в которое помпа нагнетает воду. Проверяем, и при необходимости очищаем канал от накипи и отложений.

Демонтаж сальников:

Для демонтажа сальников, я сделал нехитрое приспособление, из сломанного корцанга. Эдакий съёмник
Вводим съёмник в отверстие сальника, цепляем за край и вытягиваем. Вытягиваем равномерно, цепляя сальник то за один край, то за другой. Но хочу предупредить: сальники сидят в гнёздах, очень плотно. Во всяком случае, в моём моторе было так. Поэтому, приходилось прилагать довольно приличное усилие.
Таким способом, удаётся извлечь сальники, не повредив их.
В крышке редуктора, сальник тоже стоит пружинкой к воде.
Вынимаем сальник из крышки.
Гнездо сальника. У края латунной втулки, просверлено отверстие: масло, увлекаемое вращающимся валом, по спиральной канавке втулки направляется внутрь, смазывая вал и манжету сальника. Далее, отработанное масло, через отверстие снова попадает в редуктор. Здесь тоже китайцы всё сделали по уму.

Со штатными сальниками проблем не было, но всё же, в редукторе, я решил заменить штатные сальники, на оригинальные, «ямаховские», с двумя пружинками.

Стрелками указаны каталожные номера, под которыми они значатся на схеме мотора. По этим же номерам, можно заказать сальники в сервисе.
Китайский, и оригинальный сальники.
Внутренний и наружный диаметр сальников — одинаковый.
А вот толщина у оригинального сальника больше, но в гнезде крышки, он умещается без проблем.

Установка сальников

Перед установкой, сальники подготавливаем: извлекаем пружинки.
Закладываем в канавки водостойкую смазку, и устанавливаем пружинки на место. Не следует использовать густые смазки. Они могут затвердеть и нарушить работу пружинок.
Сальники не забиваем, а запрессовываем в редуктор, в крышку редуктора и в крышку помпы. Я использовал ручку молотка и поршень от старого шприца. Хорошо, если есть сверлильный станок — его можно использовать как пресс.
Новый сальник впрессован на место. Подошёл идеально.

Сборка редуктора и дейдвуда

Во многих технических мануалах, в таких случаях говорится: сборку производить в обратной последовательности. Я же опишу и процесс сборки дейдвуда. Так как при сборке, есть некоторые нюансы и особенности.

Перед установкой ведущего вала в редуктор, я его слегка отполировал войлоком, натёртым пастой ГОИ.
Затёрлись мелкие царапины.
Устанавливаем ведомый вал с шестерней в редуктор.
На ведущий вал надеваем верхнюю часть помпы.
И пластину крыльчатки.
Последней, на вал надеваем крыльчатку, ориентируя паз с отверстием на валу.
Смазываем латунные втулки редуктора, и заполняем маслом пространство, межу сальниками.
Устанавливаем стакан крыльчатки в корпус помпы. Отверстия должны совпадать, а фиксирующий штифт, войти в своё гнездо.
Стакан установлен.
Теперь аккуратно, чтобы не повредить сальники шлицами, вставляем вал в редуктор. Но вставляем не до конца, иначе не сможем установить ведущую шестерню на своё место.
На вал надеваем упорную шайбу,
И ведущую шестерню. Задвигаем ведущий вал до упора. Чтобы появилась стопорная канавка.
Перед установкой фиксатора, я его слегка сжал плоскогубцами.
Защёлкиваем фиксатор отвёрткой. Проверяем, чтобы он надёжно сел в своё гнездо.

Теперь, несколько слов о регулировке шестерен редуктора. Шестерни должны вращаться свободно и без заеданий.

Ведомый вал, должен иметь небольшой осевой люфт. Если люфт слишком большой, то опорную шайбу, меняем на шайбу большей толщины. Или, под опору ведомой шестерни, подкладываем шайбу. Если люфта нет совсем (такое возможно, при установке новых шестерён), а шестерни вращаются туго, то толщину шайб уменьшаем. Осевой люфт ведомого вала, должен быть минимальным, но он должен быть.
Смазываем втулку и сальник в крышке, трансмиссионным маслом,
И устанавливаем её на место.

Теперь, продолжим сборку помпы и дейдвуда:

В отверстие вала, устанавливаем фиксирующий штифт крыльчатки.
Задвигаем крыльчатку, одновременно ориентируя лопасти по ходу вращения.
Сажаем верхнюю часть помпы на направляющие штифты.
Закручиваем крепящие болты.
Вставляем в корпус помпы, резиновую муфту трубки охлаждения (снималась для чистки).
Смазав край защитной трубки смазкой, вставляем её в корпус помпы.
Надеваем антикавитационную пластину. Собранный редуктор, вставляем в дейдвуд и прикручиваем.
Устанавливаем трубку охлаждения. Конец трубки, должен попасть в резиновую муфту. Для облегчения установки трубки, можно посветить в дейдвуд фонариком.
Между ведущим валом и защитной трубкой, впрыскиваем шприцем 15-20 граммов, трансмиссионного масла. Масло будет смазывать сальник помпы и коленвала, с внешней стороны.
Смазываем прокладки между промежуточной плитой водостойкой, или графитовой смазкой. Это предотвратит их прикипание и повреждение, при следующих разборках.
Слегка смазываем четырёхганный выход коленвала и сальник маслом.
Одеваем голову мотора (при этом, выход коленвала должен войти в гнездо ведущего вала), и крепим болтами. Закручиваем сначала средние болты, потом крест-накрест. Закручиваем равномерно, за 2-3 этапа.
Заливаем в редуктор свежее масло, закрываем сальник винта, водостойкой смазкой и ставим винт.

Со сборкой-разборкой дейдвуда и редуктора закончили.

Теперь расскажу, как я реализовал защиту от повреждений винта, при срезе шпонки.
Проблема была в следующем: винт сделан из алюминиевого сплава. Между валом и винтом, имеется значительный зазор. Поэтому при налёте вращающегося винта на препятствие, шпонка срезается не ровно, а с изломом. На краях среза образуются задиры, которые, срезая слой алюминия, ещё больше увеличивают зазор между винтом и валом.
Два-три среза и шпонка уже не срезается, а гнётся буквой «Z», при этом, сильно заклинивая винт на валу. В таком случае, снять его с вала довольно сложно.

Стрелкой показано повреждение винта, сделанное обломком срезанной шпонки.
Слева — обломок шпонки, который остаётся в отверстии вала, при срезе. Виден острый выступ, который и срезает металл с винта. Справа — согнутая, но не срезанная шпонка. Пришлось изрядно помучиться, чтобы стянуть винт с вала. А чтобы снять шпонку с вала, я попытался выпрямить нижнюю часть. Но нижний кусок шпонки — отломился. На фото, для наглядности, он приклеен клеем. Синими линиями показано место, где должна срезаться шпонка.
Чтобы избежать в дальнейшем таких «сюрпризов», я придумал очень простой способ защиты: зажимаем в патрон дрели шпонку таким образом, чтобы выступал конец, длиной 7мм. Включаем дрель, и ножовкой по металлу, делаем неглубокую проточку. Аналогичным образом, делаем проточку с другой стороны шпонки. Всё, вот и весь метод!
Расстояние между проточками, должно быть 10 мм, такова толщина вала.
Теперь, при срезе шпонки, она сломается там, где сделаны проточки. Я просто указал шпонке, в каком месте она должна ломаться. По принципу: где тонко — там и рвётся. Конечно, проточки несколько ослабят прочность шпонки, но у неё довольно большой запас прочности. А нам нужно что? Чтобы при встрече с препятствием, шпонка срезалась, без последствий для винта и редуктора. Да и винт стоит гораздо дороже, чем несколько срезанных шпонок. Проточки можно сделать острым надфилем, и различной глубины. Ну и, на всякий случай, в запасе должны быть шпонки и без проточек.
Длина шпонки — 23 мм. Толщина — 3 мм. Делаю я их из обычных гвоздей.

Разборка и анализ состояния узлов мотора

Снимаем облицовку мотора и переднюю панель. Как это делается, я уже описывал в статье «Тюнинг лодочного мотора Fisher 2.5, часть первая». fish-hook.ru/ar…hast-501/
Отсоединяем топливный шланг от карбюратора. Откручиваем три болта, крепящих топливный бачок и снимаем его.
Помечаем маркером положение прокладки, относительно головки мотора. Снимаем насвечник и откручиваем свечу.
Свеча в хорошем состоянии. После обкатки мотора, я её ни разу не выкручивал. Просто не было нужды.
Откручиваем четыре болта, крепящих головку и снимаем её.
На внутренней поверхности головки, имеется незначительный чёрный налёт, который легко снимается.
Поверхность поршня, совершенно чистая и не содержит нагара. Не ожидал. Рассчитывал увидеть, хоть какие-то отложения нагара. Скорее всего, это заслуга моторного масла. Вот если бы я пользовал «народное» масло М-8, то заметил бы много неприглядного.
Стенки цилиндров чистые, без задиров.
Стрелкой указано место, до которого доходят поршневые кольца, когда поршень находится в верхней мёртвой точке. Здесь я ожидал увидеть разницу, рабочей и не рабочей части цилиндра, но не обнаружил ничего! Такое ощущение, что поршень работал, не касаясь цилиндра! Но глядя на эти царапины, так и кажется, что китайские рабочие, хонинговали цилиндр вручную, крупнозернистой наждачной бумагой.

Теперь, заглянем в мотор, через выпускное окно.

Поршневой палец, зафиксирован стопорными кольцами. Гильза цилиндра, установлена правильно. Блок цилиндра, выпускное окно в гильзе не перекрывает. Может показаться, что в нижних углах, окно в гильзе слегка перекрывает окно блока, но это только кажется, из-за острого угла съёмки.
Опустив поршень вниз — открывается вид на поршневые кольца.

А вот тут я увидел довольно интересную картину: поршневые кольца, были из разных металлов. Нижнее кольцо, как и положено, скорее всего, сделано из серого чугуна. А вот верхнее, из какого-то белого, блестящего металла. Края канавки верхнего кольца имеют небольшие скосы. У нижней канавки скосов нет.

Но и это ещё не всё. Измерив ширину канавок колец разметочным циркулем, выяснил, что верхнее кольцо, уже нижнего. То есть поменять их местами не получится. Верхнее кольцо в нижней канавке будет болтаться, а нижнее в верхнюю канавку просто не влезет. Такое мне встречается впервые.

При работе верхнее поршневое кольцо испытывает бОльшие температурные и механические нагрузки, чем нижнее. Поэтому, возможно, оно сделано из высокопрочного, легированного хромом или никелем, чугуна. В отличие от серого чугуна, он обладает свойствами стали: не хрупкий и при больших нагрузках деформируется без поломок. Но в металлах я не особо разбираюсь.
Если всё это так, то как тут не поставить китайским производителям жирный плюс!

Можно заметить, что верхнее кольцо имело сферическую поверхность, и притёрто ещё не всей плоскостью. А на нижнем кольце, даже не стёрлись притирочные риски. После сезона эксплуатации, состояние колец — как только что после обкатки. Это тоже радует.
В шатуне установлены не латунные втулки, а роликовые подшипники. И это тоже хорошо.

Кривошипно-шатунный механизм в полном порядке. Дальше разбирать его я не стал. Если поршень с кольцами, подшипники коленвала и шатуна в норме, то лезть в этот узел я не рекомендую.

Снятие, разборка и осмотр карбюратора

Сжав ушки хомута, сдвигаем его, освобождая край шланга.
Снимаем топливный шланг.
Карбюратор крепится одним винтом. Откручиваем его, освободив хомут,
И снимаем карбюратор.
Открутив колпачок, извлекаем дроссельную заслонку с иглой.
Откручиваем два винта, крепящие поплавковую камеру.
Снимаем поплавок, он ни к чему не крепится.
Откручиваем винт, крепящий пластинчатый рычаг запорной иглы и извлекаем её.
Для надёжного перекрытия топливного канала, игла имеет прорезиненный конус.
Синей стрелкой, показан топливный жиклёр. Диаметр отверстия — 1 мм. Зелёной — отверстие, которое перекрывает конус запорной иглы.

Если игла в гнезде двигается с заеданием или если между конусом и отверстием попадёт какая-то соринка, то клапан не сможет перекрыть подачу топлива. Проявится это следующим образом: при работе мотора, топливо из поплавковой камеры будет успеваеть вырабатываться. Но если заглушить двигатель и не перекрыть кран, то топливо заполнит карбюратор и начнёт вытекать наружу. (Серж, это видимо твой случай).

Сборку карбюратора, производим в обратной последовательности.

Снятие и анализ лепесткового клапана

Откручиваем шесть болтов: четыре, крепящих корпус клапана и опору стартера. И два, крепящих стартер к опоре.
Клапан в сборе (вид со стороны карбюратора).
Вид со стороны лепестка.

Вот и первая серьёзная неприятность: края лепестка обкололись и отлетели. Но лепесток ещё продолжает перекрывать отверстие клапана. Поэтому ухудшения в работе мотора не было. По отпечатку на корпусе видно какого размера лепесток был до разрушения.

Судя по оставленному следу, лепесток разрушался постепенно. Сначала появлялись трещины, потом отлетали куски лепестка.
Дело в том что, на мой взгляд, неудачно реализован упор лепестка. При всасывании топливной смеси, лепесток изгибается и ударяется об упор (отогнутый лепесток, показан красной дугой). При этом часть лепестка остаётся на весу, где возникают дополнительные резонансные колебания, разрушающие его. При частоте вращения коленчатого вала — 4000 об/мин., столько же колебаний в минуту, делает и лепестковый клапан.
Край у упора, довольно острый. Это плохо.
Поэтому, в месте прикосновения, он выбил значительное углубление на лепестке.
(Увеличенный фрагмент лепестка). Ещё немного эксплуатации мотора, и эта часть лепестка, могла отломиться целиком, попасть в картер и наделать много бед. Также, при разрушении клапана, произойдёт существенная потеря мощности мотора. Так как, часть топливной смеси, будет выплёвываться обратно, в карбюратор. Мотор будет плохо заводиться, возможно, его вообще не удастся запустить.

Конечно, буду переделывать и сам лепестковый клапан и упор клапана. Есть некоторые идеи на этот счёт.
Если с клапаном всё хорошо, то сборку производим в обратном порядке.

В заключение, осматриваем анодную пластину. Если на ней много окислений и грязи — снимаем и чистим её. Анодная пластина, делается из магниевого, или цинкового сплава. Она всю коррозию металла берёт на себя. При отсутствии пластины, коррозии будет подвергаться дейдвуд. И, как я уже писал ранее — анод нельзя красить. Некоторые думают, что это забыли сделать и красят!

На этом думаю и закончим. Хотел ещё описать разборку стартера, но этот механизм настолько прост, что нет смысла его описывать. Там могут сломаться всего две вещи: порваться шнур (шморгалка), и лопнуть пружина. У меня ни того, ни другого пока не было.

Подведение итогов

Ну что сказать. Мотор китайцы сделали довольно приличного качества. К сожалению, у меня нет возможности сравнить этот мотор с оригиналом (Yamaha 2 CMHS). Поэтому могу говорить только о надёжности данного экземпляра. За сезон эксплуатации состояние мотора такое, как будто он только что прошёл обкатку. Все сальники в редукторе установлены с одной пружинкой, но проблем с ними не было. Основные узлы — КШМ, поршневая, редуктор — все в отличном состоянии.

За время эксплуатации я даже ни разу не выкручивал свечу. Единственное, что огорчило, это состояние лепесткового клапана. Но на одном из форумов, кто-то говорил, что лепесток клапана является расходным материалом, как например и свеча зажигания. И подлежит замене через 50 моточасов, не зависимо от состояния лепестка. То есть, отплавал сезон — меняй клапан. Хорошо, что я решил провести осмотр этого узла, да и всего мотора. Теперь я знаю его возможности и состояние. Думаю, он порадует меня ещё не один сезон.

Конечно, были и мелкие недостатки, о них я писал в первой своей статье по тюнингу мотора. Но, в основном, мотор рабочий и имеет место быть, учитывая ещё и его цену. Но я не берусь утверждать, что все моторы Fisher 2.5 такого качества. Поэтому, покупая китайский мотор, нужно хоть чуть разбираться в технике. Или брать Yamaha 2, но это будет уже в два раза дороже.

Данную статью прошу никоим образом не считать рекламой мотора Fisher 2.5 BMS. Мне его для теста никто не предоставлял и обзор писать не просил. Мотор я приобретал на свои средства, при помощи Сергея (Serdgik). Просто на момент покупки мотора в моём районе их не было, а Серж предложил помощь с покупкой. У нас они повально появились чуть позже, под брендом Sea pro Т2.5S.

Удачи всем на водной глади!

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